After Pondicherry, I headed for Tanjore, via the very impressive temple complexes of Chidambaram, Kumbakonam & Gangaikondacholapuram.
Chidambaram (10-13th century) is one of the holiest Hindu sites in South India. The ancient city considered itself at the centre of the universe and therefore lays claim to the place where Shiva performed his cosmic dance, which is commemorated in many beautiful sculptures throughout India.
Then there is Kumbakonam, just over two hours south. There are 18 temples in the town centre and the largest shrine, dedicated to Vishnu, is the Sarangapani Temple. This temple dates from the 13th century; its gopurams ( monumental towers, very ornate, which mark the entrance of the temples) stand at 45 metres (148 feet), and is made of 12 storeys. The main sanctum is constructed in the style of a chariot, with horses and elephants carved in relief.
Finally there is Gangaikondacholapuram. This one was built in the 11th century. The main tower, which houses the Shiva lingam, stands 60 meters high ! At the top of the structure sits a single, 60 ton rock, sculpted in the form of a dome. One single piece of sculpted rock 60 metres off the ground !!
That piece of rock, which was hauled from a quarry 50 km away from the sight, originally weighed 80 tons. It required tens of thousands of men and elephants to bring it on sight. Then sculpt it.
To get it up to the top, the builders had to construct four 6 km ramps, on each of the four sides of the tower, to haul it into place. They knew how to use ramps because in the 12th century they already had a deep understanding of engineering principles and construction techniques, as well as a strong knowledge of mathematics and physics.
These buildings are a testament to such fantastic achievements. To their knowledge, skills and creativity. As well as their deep spiritual and cultural motivation in creating such grand and monumental structures. Very inspiring and completely unimaginable in our day and time.
